Experienced & written by: Tracie May
There are designers who flirt with maximalism, and then there is Chung Thanh Phong. CTP is indeed a MAXIMALIST, and for CTP No.3, his largest couture presentation to date, the Vietnamese designer made absolutely no apologies for it.
Presented at Thiskyhall Sala, Orchid Planet transported guests into a seductive, futuristic ecosystem inspired by the rare beauty and continual transformation of mutant orchids. Anchoring the backdrop of the 50-metre runway was a colossal, mechanized orchid, rising eight meters high and spanning ten meters across, its lower petal rising and falling to create an unmistakably sensual, distinctly yonic effect.
One hundred models presented 100 individual looks, with no repeated silhouettes, identities or personalities. At that scale, a collection can easily collapse into visual noise. Phong maintained cohesion by interpreting the orchid as anatomy rather than simply using it as decoration. Petal-shaped volumes emerged from hips, shoulders and necklines; corsetry sculpted the body into dramatic hourglass forms; fluid draping softened the collection’s more architectural proportions.
The palette moved through obsidian black, molten gold, silver, bronze and rich jewel tones of emerald, amethyst, crimson and orchid purple. Liquid silk skimmed the body like illuminated water, while lace, chiffon and delicate hand-dyed petals were disrupted by metallic leather, sequins, reflective surfaces and sculptural hardware.
The collection showcased both ready-to-wear and Phong’s signature embellished cocktail dresses and gowns. The tailoring brought a welcome sense of urban confidence to the fantasy. One particularly strong look paired a black and metallic silk blouse with perfectly cut black slacks, delivering a glamorous nod to early 1980s Bianca Jagger.
A metallic gold leather and lace slip dress offered another standout moment, combining the intimacy of lingerie dressing with the armor-like confidence of metallic leather. A black leather menswear trench looked as though it could have been pulled directly from Morpheus’ wardrobe in The Matrix. Severe, cinematic and commanding, it gave the collection a darker, futuristic edge.
Among the evening gowns, a full-length black and silver animal-print gown, drenched in sequins and cascading fringe beading, was downright fabulous.
Not every look needed every idea. At certain moments, exaggerated volume, floral embellishment and reflective hardware competed for the same spotlight. Yet excess is part of Phong’s creative language, and the disciplined construction beneath the decoration prevented the collection’s strongest pieces from slipping into costume. When the embellishment became more elaborate, silhouettes were often simplified, allowing the craftsmanship and material treatments to remain the focus.
Phong’s pieces are sculptural and unapologetically luxurious, reflecting wearable works of art. His women are glamorous, powerful and fully aware that every head in the room has turned to watch them. Softness may be expressed through silk, lace and draping, but these are not fragile flowers. They are women in full bloom, occupying space with confidence.
With Orchid Planet, Chung Thanh Phong demonstrated the scale of his ambition and his increasingly confident command of couture craftsmanship, theatrical storytelling and international-level runway production. Most importantly, beneath the spectacle were clothes capable of commanding attention far beyond Vietnam.
I could see it girl Hollywood celebrities like Zendaya wearing several pieces from the collection. Law Roach, take note of this designer!
Director: Phạm Hoàng Nam
Art Direction: TEE LE
Makeup Direction: TEE LE
Music Direction: Trang Pháp
Music Production: HINO
Catwalk Direction: Nhã Trúc
Model Management: iDO Management
Catwalk Styling & Training: Phan Linh & Phan Linh Academy
Makeup: TEE LE × The MUA Hồ Khanh Team
Hair: JOICO Team
Venue: Thiskyhall Sala
Shoes: ALEX&SARA
Accessories: RABII